Saturday, September 13, 2008

The Best Japanese in Albuquerque?

We finally got out to the wilds of Rio Rancho the other night for a visit to what has been touted as the best Japanese restaurant in Albuquerque. Noda's is tucked into a nondescript mini mall in the sea of new construction near Intel. While, for people who live in this area, a trip across the river into Albuquerque is routine the reverse isn't true. Especially for those of us who live in the older parts of the city, venturing out there has a surreal quality. It is like dropping through a synchronastic infindibulum to "some other place".

Well, we found Noda's with no problem. It was right across the parking lot from a bra store. While the exterior isn't prepossessing this interior is just fine. Simple, clean, with muted colors. Calm and relaxing. I have been told that it is difficult to get a table at this popular spot, so I guess that the four of us were fortunate this particular Thursday evening as Noda's was less than half full for the two hours we were there.

My son and I love raw fish. Our wives, not so much; but they usually find something satisfying at the sushi restaurants that we frequent. Now here I must emphasise that, although Noda's is frequently listed with sushi restaurants, it is not one. Noda's has a few rolls, but it is a Japanese restaurant known for it's incredibly fresh sashimi and some original takes on the theme.

My son had a two fish entree which came with a vegetable tempura served in a boat. The ladies made a meal of various appetizers while I went for the most expensive item on the menu ($27) which was the sashimi platter.

The bottom line is that this was the best sashimi I have ever had in Albuquerque. The kind that makes me close my eyes and hum as I am eating it. The Ama Ebi (sweet shrimp) came with raw heads. That was interesting, but I prefer the heads fried crispy in a salt crust to contrast with the sweet bodies. Even the salmon was about the cleanest tasting that I have ever had. That said, I still think that it belongs in creamed salmon and peas over toast and not on my plate. I'll request something else be substituted next time. There was more than enough on my platter and I did not feel shorted at all. The shiso leaves were real instead of the plastic faux leaves you get elsewhere. Wonder of wonders, the wasabi had some of the real stuff in it and wasn't entirely dyed horseradish.

Truthfully, I was kind of lost in the experience and did not pay a lot of attention to what everyone else was having. I know that my son enjoyed his meal as much as I. There was an eel dish that I have heard touted and it was better than the overly sweet eel that is usually encountered. The tuna carpaccio, which has been praised elsewhere, was a disappointment to me. I am usually disappointed in any dish that involves cheese at a Japanese restaurant and this tuna and mozzarella combo is best left to a really good Italian chef.

In the end, yes, I think this is the best Japanese restaurant here. The owners and staff are accommodating, helpful and friendly. The interior decor is pleasant and does not upstage the food. I did not find it as expensive as I was led to expect ($160 w/tip for 4). I will be back, and while I may experiment with an appetizer or two, this will be my sashimi place from now on.

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